Dermatologist warns of increased sun damage risk with active skincare products

A leading dermatologist has cautioned that popular active skincare ingredients can heighten sun sensitivity, increasing the risk of cell damage and pigmentation issues if proper precautions aren’t taken, reports Swedish public broadcaster SVT Nyheter.

Products containing retinols, AHA/BHA acids, and treatments like laser or microneedling remove the skin’s outer layer, boosting radiance but also making it more vulnerable to UV rays, according to Margareta Frohm Nilsson, senior consultant in dermatology at Karolinska University Hospital.

“You risk greater skin damage if you sunbathe actively while using these products—things like pigment changes or cellular harm,” Frohm Nilsson told SVT’s Morgonstudion. She advised scheduling facial treatments to avoid overlap with sun-heavy periods, such as vacations.

Ingredients like hyaluronic acid and vitamin C do not increase sun sensitivity, but Frohm Nilsson stressed that high-SPF sunscreen remains essential for all skin types, even in mild spring sunlight. “It’s crucial for preventing aging, wrinkles, pigmentation, and skin cancer,” she said.

A recent survey commissioned by Swedish pharmacy chain Apoteket found many users of “active skincare”—products targeting pigmentation, acne, or aging—lack awareness of their sun-related risks.