Danish Michelin chefs warn of declining local produce ahead of awards

Two of Denmark’s most celebrated chefs have used the eve of the Nordic Michelin Guide ceremony to sound an alarm over the country’s shrinking use of domestic ingredients, despite expectations of a strong showing for Danish restaurants at Monday’s event in Copenhagen.

Rasmus Kofoed, chef and co-owner of three-Michelin-starred Geranium, and Kamilla Seidler, known for her work at Restaurant Lola, told public broadcaster DR that Danish consumers and the food industry are failing to support local producers—threatening both culinary quality and the future of farming.

“If we just buy a cucumber or a carrot, and they’re foreign-produced, it all becomes too mainstream,” Kofoed said in an interview with DR’s P1 Morgen. “Using Danish ingredients is a way to enrich meals for everyday people.”

Seidler argued that locally grown produce simply tastes better. “When you compare Danish new potatoes to imports, there’s no competition,” she said. “The joy of eating disappears if the ingredients disappear.”

Their warnings come as data from the food policy think tank Madtanken reveals that only 9% of fruit and 26% of vegetables in Danish supermarkets are domestically produced. Both chefs called on the restaurant industry to lead by example, hoping their choices will influence supermarkets and, ultimately, shoppers.

“Suddenly, you see Ingrid peas from Lolland in stores—that’s a direct result of restaurants prioritizing Danish products,” Seidler said. She urged making local produce “sexy” to shift consumer habits.

Kofoed stressed economic stakes, noting that young farmers struggle to enter an industry undercut by cheap imports. “We’re choosing foreign vegetables, so there’s no foundation for the next generation,” he said.

The chefs’ appeal coincides with the Michelin Guide’s Nordic awards ceremony, held Monday evening in Tivoli’s concert hall. Kofoed, whose Geranium is among Denmark’s highest-rated restaurants, said he hopes to retain its three stars but acknowledged the pressure to prove his team’s consistency.

The event will be broadcast live on large screens at Tivoli’s Plænen, allowing the public to follow the announcements alongside chefs and Michelin staff.