Fashion industry expands polyester use despite climate targets

Polyester made from fossil oil is common in fleece and faux-fur clothing, and its production is rising despite the fashion industry’s goal of cutting greenhouse gas emissions, SVT reports.

Figures from Textile Exchange, a sustainability organisation for the fashion industry, show that production of synthetic fibres doubled between 2000 and 2024. A total of 132 million tonnes was made in 2024. The industry aims to reduce emissions by 45 per cent by 2030, but expects synthetic fibre production to increase sharply, making the target harder to reach.

Less than one per cent of polyester is recycled. Many garments combine different materials and contain dyes, creating technical challenges for recycling. Dan Åkesson, a professor of polymer technology at the University of Borås, said the industry should take greater responsibility for developing recycling technology.

“We are not very good at dealing with waste, which means a lot of it is burned in practice,” Åkesson said. Burning clothes releases carbon dioxide into the atmosphere.

Sandra Roos, sustainability director at Kappahl, said polyester lasts a long time because it does not wear out easily and has an undeservedly poor reputation. She said major climate emissions instead come from factories where fabric is dyed, woven and sewn, and called for a shift to renewable energy.

SVT’s accompanying video examines how much oil is needed to make a fleece and discusses why newly produced polyester may be better for the climate than recycled polyester.