Helsinki celebrates midsummer against the grain

For those skipping the traditional cottage retreat, Helsinki offers its own midsummer charm—whether in the steam of a wood-fired sauna, the buzz of a city square, or the thrill of an amusement park.

At Sompasauna in Mustikkamaa, the public sauna runs on volunteer labour, open and free to all. Visitors haul water, chop wood, and stoke the stove themselves. Karoliina Turunen, visiting from northern Finland, tried it for the first time and was sold. Miikael Arkimo, a Helsinki local, prizes the rare calm of an empty capital.

Tanja Partanen has made the “reverse midsummer” her tradition: after starting the week at a cottage in Mikkeli, she returns to the city for Sompasauna. To her, it is non-negotiable.

At Kauppatori, the market square draws both locals and tourists. Japanese visitors Miki Ucon and Kazuma Suzuki, sauna professionals on holiday, filled up on salmon soup, coffee, doughnuts, and sausage before heading to Kotiharju’s public sauna. Monica Vazquez, visiting family from Florida, simply enjoys the quiet.

Contrary to the idea of a deserted capital, Finnish voices mix with foreign ones. The Kedo family from Södertälje took the ferry to Helsinki after the children insisted. Their plans were loose, but lohisoppa was a must. Last year, they spent midsummer at Linnanmäki amusement park—a hit with grandson Robin Keto.

This year, Linnanmäki again attracts crowds, with shorter-than-usual queues. Teemu Pehkonen, who has no cottage tradition, calls it a deliberate break from the norm.